Diamond Information

Cut

Cut has a major influence on the internal brilliance of a diamonds that are set into engagement rings. Cut affects the reflectance of light within the diamond. The modern round brilliant is the most popular shape because its symmetrical radial facets function to provide an even display of brilliance. However, the degree of this brilliance is greatly influenced by the proportions of the stone. The crown height and the pavilion depth relative to the diameter of the stone are what determine the refractive angles within the stone and ultimately the proper reflectance of light back through the top of the diamond. The American Ideal Cut is widely accepted as being the cut-grading standard that achieves the highest brilliance in a diamond. We insist that the diamonds that are set into our engagement rings closely conform to this standard. By doing this we ensure that our engagement rings have the proper proportions, with maximum brilliance.

Colour

Colour also has a major influence on the internal brilliance of the diamonds in engagement rings. Colour affects the transmission of light through the diamond. The best colour for a diamond - is no colour at all. That is to say, it should be totally colourless. Unfortunately many diamonds used in mass marketed engagement rings are not absolutely colourless due primarily to minute traces of nitrogen atoms that were trapped internally when the diamond crystal was formed. These nitrogen atoms absorb some of the violet and blue light that enters the stone and the diamond appears faintly yellow. In effect there is a loss of light within the stone resulting in less brilliance. The degree of colour in a diamond is graded internationally on the GIA Colour Scale from letters D - Z. On this scale, the more yellow the diamond, the lower the letter of the alphabet. Letters D and E represent the Finest White stones, F and G the Fine White stones, and H the White stones.

Clarity

Clarity refers to the purity of the diamond crystal. Diamond crystals are virtually 100% carbon and they are formed approximately 75 to 120 miles beneath the Earth's surface. Very few diamonds in engagement rings are totally flawless and most diamonds have one or more internal inclusions within their structure. Normally these only affect transparency and brilliance when the inclusions are sufficiently large enough to be seen with the unaided eye. However the less inclusions in the diamond, the more valuable it is - simply because the rarity factor comes into play. All diamonds are graded face up under 10X magnification. The GIA clarity scale of grading is as follows:

Other gem laboratories such as the EGL use the SI3 grade for "good" I1 stones.

Carat

Carat is the unit of measure used to determine the weight of a diamond. A carat is equal to .02 gram (.007 ounce). A carat is divided into 100 points, with one point being equal to .0002 gram (.00007 ounce). Electronic scales are used to accurately weigh loose diamonds. Provided that cut, colour and clarity are not compromised, the value of a diamond increases according to its size. However bigger is not always better in terms of value - and diamonds of equal size can have very unequal value depending upon their quality.

Gold

Gold is a yellow coloured metal, that in its pure form, is inert and virtually indestructible.  Due to its natural malleability, engagement rings manufactured from pure gold would easily get bent and distorted during the course of wear. Jewellers overcome this problem by alloying pure gold with other metals such as silver, copper, nickel and zinc. This results in a harder and more durable mixture, known as Karat gold. Typically the Karat gold used for engagement rings is 14K gold (58.33%  pure), 18K gold (75.00% pure) and 19K gold (79.17% pure). Depending on variations in the alloy mixtures, 14K gold and 18K gold are produced in both yellow and white, whereas 19K gold is produced in white only. The long term whiteness and durability of 19K gold is the closest to that of platinum, at less than half the cost. Its hardness resists scratching, and its white high polished finish lasts longer than that of platinum engagement rings.

Platinum

Platinum is a dense, heavy gray/white metal that is alloyed in order to increase its malleability, so as to enable the manufacture of engagement rings. It is hypoallergenic, very durable and permanently white. Typically the combinations of platinum alloy mixtures used are, 95% platinum with 5% iridium, 95% platinum with 5% ruthenium, and 90% platinum with 10% iridium. Platinum does not retain a high polished finish for very long. With wearing, it takes on a matt white appearance that requires frequent polishing to restore its original bright showroom finish.